Show Terms

Class – 1. A group of rabbits that fall into the same gender, pattern and age group. 2. Age group of the rabbit. Either Junior, Intermediate or Senior

BOB – Best of Breed – Rabbits are judged by breed and the best one determined by judge is BOB.

BOS – Best Opposite Sex – After judge determines the BOB rabbit then judge determines the best of the opposite sex of the BOB rabbit. For example, if a buck wins BOB, then the judge will choose the best doe for the BOS.

BOV – Best Of Variety – The rabbit judged best of its variety. “Variety” is the same as “color” in most breeds. Some breeds only come in one color, and BOV does not apply. “Variety” can mean something else in some breeds, so research your breed.

BOSV – Best Opposite Sex of Variety – Rabbit is judged and the best rabbit of the opposite sex of the BOV rabbit.

BOG – Best Of Group – In some breeds, varieties are lumped together, and shown in groups (Jersey Wooly), or first shown in individual varieties, then the best of each group is chosen (Netherland Dwarf).

BOSG – Best Opposite Sex of Group – Judged the best rabbit of the opposite sex of the BOG rabbit. Best 4-Class – Judged the best rabbit of all the breeds that have four showroom classes. The four classes being: Senior buck, senior doe, junior buck, and junior doe. This is an optional award. Best 6-Class – Judged the best rabbit of all the breeds that have six showroom classes. The six classes being: Senior buck, senior doe, intermediate (also called 6-8) buck, intermediate (also called 6-8) doe, junior buck, and junior doe. Some of these breeds also have a pre-junior class, which is not counted. This is an optional award. BIS – Best In Show – Judged as the best rabbit in the rabbit show. BIS may be chosen by comparing all the BOB winners, or a Best 4-Class and a Best 6-Class may be chosen first, and the BIS chosen from these two winners. Another method, is to designate several groups, with several breeds in each group, choose a Best of each Group, then choose BIS from the group winners. Usually, only very large shows use this method. All shows are required to choose a BIS.

RIS – Reserve In Show – Judged the second best rabbit in the show. This is an optional award. If a Best 4-Class and a Best 6-Class are chosen first, the RIS is the one not chosen for BIS.

Runner-up BIS – Same as RIS. Termonology may be different in different areas of the country. In a 4-H or Non-ARBA Sanctioned Show: Champion – Judged the best rabbit in a certain “group” of rabbits, as designated by the show committee. Rabbits may be grouped by breed, or some other criteria, such as “fancy” and “commercial”, “all other breeds”, “grade”, “meat pen”, “single fryer”, etc. Reserve Champion – Judged the best of the opposite sex of the Champion rabbit. For instance, if a doe wins Champion, then the judge will choose the best buck for the Reserve Champion. Except, in meat pen or single fryer, Reserve Champion is the second place pen or rabbit, regardless of sex. Grand Champion – Judged as the best rabbit in the show, or a certain part of the show. This award is chosen by comparing all of the Champion rabbits. Meat pens and single fryers are usually divided from “breeding” classes, so two or more Grand Champions may be awarded in a show. Reserve Grand Champion – Judged as the best of the opposite sex of the Grand Champion rabbit. Except, in meat pen or single fryer, Reserve Grand Champion is the second place pen or rabbit, regardless of sex. The above terms are common all across the US. But be aware that in 4-H and non-ARBA sanctioned shows, the show sponsor is free to make rules, and award placements as they see fit, so there could be variations.

ARBA Terms:

ARBA – The initials of the American Rabbit Breeders Association, Inc., which promotes rabbits in the United States and foreign countries, provides for licensing of judges and registrars, and publishes a book of standards (The Standard of Perfection) which describes the desired characteristics for each recognized breed.

Grand Champion – A rabbit who has won at least three “Leg” papers (under at least 2 different ARBA judges, and with at least one win as an intermediate or senior), is registered, and has obtained a Grand Champion Certificate, with a Grand Champion number, from ARBA.

Pedigreed – A rabbit who has a written record of at least three generations of ancestors. This information should include name and/or ear number, weight and color, plus any other information available, such as winnings, registration numbers, and Grand Champion numbers. A pedigree form is made out by the breeder of the rabbit. A pedigreed rabbit is usually a purebred, but not necessarily. A pedigeed rabbit usually has a tattoo in its left ear, which corresponds to the ear number on its pedigree paper.

Registered – A rabbit who is purebred, fully pedigreed, has passed the inspection of an ARBA Registrar, and has received a Registration Certificate and number from ARBA. A registered rabbit should have a number or circled “R” tattooed in its right ear.

Leg – An official certificate issued by a Show Secretary, designating a certain win. In all cases, a leg will only be issued if there are at least 5 rabbits competing for that particular win, with at least 3 breeders of those rabbits. A “Leg” may be awarded for First Place in a class, BOB, BOS, BOV, BOSV, BOG, BOSG, or BIS. A rabbit can only get one Leg per show.

Working on Project – help me out?

?I am working on a new project and need some really good pictures of the following breeds.? If you can add some fun facts about the breed then that would be great!

If I choose to use your rabbit pictures, you will get a laminated card with your rabbit on it along with your name, Rabbitry and bunny information.

Please send all quality pictures and information to amandagoodwin2011@gmail.com with header being the breed of your rabbit. Pictures need to be free of clutter in the background and good clear quality. By sending picture to email you are agreeing to give me rights to use them. If you don’t see your breed then that means we already have required information.

Thank you for your interest!

American

American Sable

Angora, French

Angora, Giant

Angora, Satin

Argente Brun

Bevern

Blanc de Hotot

Britannia Petite

Champagne D’ Argent

Checkered Giant

Chinchilla, American

Chinchilla, Giant

Chinchilla, Standard

Cinnamon

Dwarf Hotot

English Spot

Florida White

Holland Lop

Lionhead

Lop, English

Lop, Mini

Mini Rex

Mini Satin

New Zealand

Palomino

Polish

Rex

Satin

Silver

Silver Fox

Silver Marten

Thrianta

Tattooing rabbits with pen

Tattooing rabbits is a must for those showing or keeping records on their rabbits. Some use a clamp, but we personally prefer to use a tattoo pen. There is a learning curve on the pen but as I suggest to all those getting started is to practice on your culls. It also takes patience and a steady hand.

The first step is to know what tattoo you want to use on particular rabbit, everyone has their own methods. It may be a date, rabbit name, or a tracking method that you use.

This is what we use for tattooing – It is designed by KBTatts. There are several different types on the market – just find what works best for you.
If you are planning to show rabbit then tattoo will need to be in their left ear. The right ear is reserved for registration tattoo which a registrar would have to do on a qualifying rabbit.

We have discovered that if you use this spray and let it sit for about 3 minutes before tattooing then it makes everything so much easier.

Once the ear has been sprayed with numbing spray and has had time to sit then wipe it gently with a paper towel. Then we wrap bunny up in a tattoo sleeve like the one below.

Tattoo allows bunny to stay still so that you can place tattoo in ear.

Once you have your bunny’s ear numb and he is wrapped up tight like a burrito then you dip the tip of your needle into ink well and start writing tattoo. Some will use a marker or pen of some sorts to write tattoo in ear first then trace with a pen. I prefer to freehand it. I also like to sit at a table with bunny on table so I have more control. It helps to place a finger behind the ear while you are tattooing to help with pressure. Once tattoo is done then I wipe it out with paper towel. Now you have a permanent tattoo in your rabbits ear.

Remember to practice! Good luck!

Getting ready for a show

Getting ready for a show It seems like it is always a huge undertaking getting ready for a show. You are always worrying that you will forget something and you probably will but you will learn what works best for you. I highly suggest making a list and keeping it close so you can add to it.

First off, you want to make sure that your rabbit is free of DQs. *Check teeth and make sure they are not messed up. *Nails need clipped, double check the nail color and make sure they have all nails. *Check coat for molting and discoloration or spots. *Double check and make sure the sex fairy didn’t visit and change them on you – Trust me it happens more times then I care for it. You also want to make sure that the bucks don’t have pimples or split penis. *Check ears and make sure that the tattoo can be seen clearly and rabbit is free of mites. *Make sure to weigh them and that they make the correct weight for their class.

Once you have the list of rabbits then you need to send in your entries for show. Double check everything when it goes in, again when they send confirmation and again at the show. One mistake will cost you an entry fee. It is your responsibility to make sure that EVERYTHING is correct. Ok – now on to the list of what to take. *You will want to take a chair. We usually take a barstool too since some of the classes are so long, the barstool allows us to sit near judging table without taking up any more space then we would standing there. My daughter also takes a pillow and blanket with her. I make sure I take tennis shoes and not my boots – a lot of standing * A grooming table/stand, if you don’t have one then you can lay a piece of carpet over the cages and use it as one. *We also always take nail clippers and tattoo pen because you just never know. *You will also want pen and paper so you can keep up with rabbit placement, judge comments, etc. *Labeling pens whether they are nice cage tags like in our store or just a piece of duct tape with black marker on it: it will make it so much easier at show time instead of digging through and checking ear numbers. *Since we take kids to the show with us we always have simple snacks and an ice chest of drinks. Most shows will have a concession stand. *Water and feed bowls for the rabbits and we also bring our own water because it is what they are used too. *Carriers must have a leak proof tray in order to be allowed into showroom. You can put puppy pads, shavings, etc in the bottom to help hold down the smell.

NOTE**** PLEASE CLEANUP AFTER YOURSELF AT THE SHOWS – THEY ARE RUN BY VOLUNTEERS AND VENUES ARE ALSO HARD TO COME BY AND WE NEVER WANT TO LEAVE A MESS. Thanks!

A few other things that we take are sale rabbits, our sign, our pedigree book, and something for the donation table that they have set up at the shows. We also make sure that we purchase tickets for raffles. This is what helps the shows continue to thrive. I would rather help a local show then only be able to drive to a couple a year because they are hours away.

If it is your first show then don’t stress, there are ALWAYS some very helpful people that will be more than happy to guide you around and help you out.

Once at show, you will need to check rabbits in. This is where you DOUBLE check your entries and make sure that everything is correct. Once you have taken care of that then you find a place to set up and then you wait for the FUN to begin!

I imagine that I left a few things and it seems like every time we go we think of something else or we see an awesome idea at the show that will work for us. Most shows also have vendor there so you can pick up items you need for home and show while there. If you have any tips please feel free to leave in the comment section.

Best Bunny for Me!

So you want a bunny? That is the first step! Next do your research on breeds, there are 49 breeds that are recognized by ARBA. You can find them here.

You need to decide what you are interested in – they come in all different sizes and several of the breeds require special cages and care.

Maybe you want a small bunny. Examples are Dwarf Hotots, Polish, Netherland Dwarfs or even a Britannia Petite. I wouldn’t recommend Britannia Petite for a beginner or someone wanting a laid back bunny. They are like little rockets ready to go!

Maybe you want a medium size bunny like a sweet laid back Dutch or Himalayan? You have meat breeds and fancy to choose from.

Maybe you want a lop eared bunny? Did you know they come in small and large sizes? The large ones have to have very sturdy bottoms on their cages in order to hold their weights.

Maybe you want a fast moving bunny like a Tan, English spot or even a Belgium Hare – Hares have to have solid bottoms on their cages. Running breeds are also not considered cuddle bunnies and are always on the go.

Maybe you want a large bunny? Great examples of them are Giant Chinchillas, English Lops and Flemish. These are usually very gentle giants but they are too big for young children to place on the tables.

Maybe you want something you can groom daily and even use hair to make things. They also come in small to large – Breed examples are Jersey Woolies and Giant Angoras.

Maybe you want to focus and help preserve a rare breed – the list can be found at https://livestockconservancy.org/index.php/heritage/internal/conservation-priority-list#Rabbits

If you still don’t have a clue then I suggest visiting a show (shows can be found on arba.net) . Shows will give you a variety of bunnies to look over and most breeders will be more than happy to give you guidance and explain the ins and outs of their breeds. It also gives you an idea how shows are ran.

Once you get an idea on the breed you want then you need to research it! Don’t just look for all the positive things but also the negative side of that breed. That way you know what you are getting yourself into. Example – Dutch very friendly and easy breeders, Downfall is that they have to have correct markings in order to show so you have to have a place for your culls.

Rabbits are not always easy and don’t always breed like they say. Once you figure out your breed then find a breeder and talk to that breeder – ask them questions and get to really understand that breed. You also want to purchase your starter stock from a reputable breeder. If you start out with crap then you are still feeding crap and you will produce crap. Make sure you start out with Quality animals it will save you a lot of heartache in the end.

Good Luck on your rabbit adventures!

I will be happy to help in anyway that I can and help you find some amazing breeders.

Hope to see you at the show!

 

 

No, you can’t visit my barn

We locked our barn down several years ago. This was done for our animals and our protection. This explains it.

I have asked if I could repost the following and was granted permission. She says it best! The following was borrowed from https://www.facebook.com/meadowmunchers/

—————————————————————————————————————————————-

Why animal breeders may not invite you in anymore

You’ve probably read somewhere, maybe even from me, that a breeder that won’t let you see where animals are kept or meet your animals is a big red flag.

That breeders who won’t let you meet the animals or see where they are kept must be hiding something.

Well that’s no longer true

Why you ask?

Because there is a vendetta in the USA right now against breeders, even the really good breeders.

Anti breeder types, be they from HSUS or PETA or other animal rights groups or overzealous animal shelter workers or other similar people are making it their life’s work to get breeders animal seized and stop all breeding.

Many times this involves lying, filing false complaints or worse- setting the breeder up.
Sometimes these people even gain the breeder’s trust or work for them.

No matter how clean your animals are.
No matter how well fed and clean your animals are.
No matter how careful you are to only breed the best and most fully health tested animals
No matter how much time and money you put into them and how much money you lose.

These people are looking to get your dogs seized, to get another “horrible breeder” story in the news, to use you and your animals to get restrictive laws passed.

Breeders now must not only do their absolute best , they now must guard against those that would destroy their life’s work and the animals they love for no reason other than hate.

So the next time an animal breeder grills you with questions, or meets you in their driveway or even at the shopping center in their town, don’t hold it against them – they may just be doing all they can to keep hateful people from destroying all they love.

**Side note — ALWAYS MEET IN PUBLIC PLACE and let someone know who you are meeting. If possible take someone with you.

 

Bunnies won’t breed like Bunnies

Contrary to popular belief – Bunnies don’t always breed like we would like them too. Especially if you are anxiously awaiting a litter. It can become very stressful and dishearten when you can’t get rabbits to breed and have babies.

I have learned a few tricks over the years that have helped me.

  • Add “mother” Apple Cider Vinegar (ACV) – 1 Tablespoon per gallon of water. This will help does come on into cycle. We do this with all our bunnies.
  • Put buck into doe cage.
  • If doe isn’t mean then you can leave buck with her for a few days – I don’t care to do this because it can cause injury and you don’t know 100% if they mated or not.
  • Breed on table – position doe and hold while buck mounts.
  • Another trick is to swap cage with buck and doe – leave them in each other’s cages for a few days then place doe with buck.
  • They say Parsley will help fertility but I have not tested that theory.
  • You can also put them in a carrier and drive around town. There is something about traveling that seems to bring them in.
  • Add light so that they have longer “daylight” time during those shorter days.
  • Feed can also play a major role in breeding and fertility.
  • Doe is considered “in” when her vulva is swollen and red. She will normally raise up on back end if you put your hands on her back.
  • Does will also get very testy and grumpy when cycling.
  • Don’t let virgin bucks get tore up by grumpy doe – it will make him shy and leery of breeding.
  • Also make sure that buck has both set of testicles and doesn’t have spit penis.
  • Another thing is to make sure that the rabbits are of appropriate age to breed depending on breed they are.

If you have any tips or questions- Please feel free to comment here. Don’t give up!

Registering your Rabbit



The first thing you need to do in order to get ready to register your rabbit is to be a current member of ARBA – You can sign up at www.arba.net

Once you are member then you will be given an ARBA number which you will use for registration.


Two more really import MUST HAVES are…

  • Rabbit must be at least six months of age and must meet all senior requirements for their breed to be eligible for registration.
  • Rabbit must have a COMPELETE three generation pedigree. *Imported animals are not allowed on the pedigree unless name and/or ear number is listed, along with variety, and weight of said animal. The word “import” alone is not acceptable. *Each animal listed on the pedigree must show complete name and/or ear number of animal, variety, and weight. **English lops must also have ear lengths. If registered, include the registration number – any animals after the registration number doesn’t have to be filled out.  Each listed animal in the pedigree must be of the same breed as the one being registered.

If your good so far then you must find a licensed Registrar. They can be found at most shows and on the ARBA site.

Present your current ARBA membership Card. Individual names must be listed. Rabbit can not be registered under a company, rabbitry, family name, etc. If the rabbit is owned by and adult and co-owned by a youth, it can ONLY be shown in open shows.

Have a copy of your three generation pedigree to hand to Registrar.

Present your rabbit seeking registration to the Registrar. The Registrar will then examine and weigh the rabbit to verify it meets the standard for the breed. The pedigree will be reviewed. If everything is in order, the Registrar will proceed with registration.

Registrar will have the owner completer the pedigree portion of the application. Owner MUST proof the entire completed application. Sign only if correct.

Registration Insignia is then tattooed in the right ear of the rabbit. It is an R with a circle around it.


Sign and date registration applications and hand back to the Registrar. You will then receive a pink copy of registration application. Registrar will collect payment at that time which is $6.


Registrar will submit the application to ARBA office for processing. The registration application is submitted within 25 days from date registered. You can track your application from the time it’s received to the time it is mailed by going to ARBA and checking under “Check Registration Status”.

Application is processed and issued a Registration Certificate showing the registration number assigned to the animal by the Registrar on the day of registration.

A registration file is maintained in the ARBA office on the rabbit.







What a Leg means in Show terms

Have you ever heard someone say excitedly that their rabbit got a Leg? 

HMMMM – I thought they had four ! You would be right, they do have four limbs. So what is a Leg?

An official certificate issued by a Show Secretary through ARBA sanctioned shows, designating a certain win.  A “Leg” may be awarded for First Place in a class, BOB, BOS, BOV, BOSV, BOG, BOSG, or BIS. A rabbit can only get one Leg per show. To qualify for a leg there are a couple things that must meet the guidelines.

  • Minimum of 3 exhibitors
  • Minimum of 5 rabbits
  • ARBA sanctioned show
  • Must be judged by ARBA licensed Rabbit Judge

Sounds easy right? Not necessarily – If you have 20 rabbits and only 2 exhibitors then no Leg will is awarded. If you have 4 exhibitors and 4 rabbits then no leg can be received. This can be extremely difficult to get on rabbit breeds that are rare or just not as popular as others.

So what do I do with a Leg? Once you get 3 Legs with one being received as a Senior and if rabbit is registered then you can send in for a Grand Champion certificate. A rabbit can only receive one Grand Champion certificate but they can win numerous Legs.

This all helps prove the quality of your rabbits and makes them more valuable. There is also a pride in receiving special awards that rabbits you bred and raise receive.

You don’t have to have a pedigree on your rabbit in order to win a Leg.

You do have to have a pedigree on a rabbit in order to get a Grand Champion certificate and get it registered.

Good Luck and Happy Showing!

Do I have to have a pedigree rabbit in order to show?

NOPE!
Did you know that you DON’T have to have a pedigree when you show a rabbit?? I get so mad when I hear someone say they were told they were not allowed to show a rabbit unless it has a pedigree. I have seen some very nice rabbits passed over because someone didn’t think they could show them, so I want to break this down some for you. You CAN show a rabbit without a pedigree – in fact they don’t even look or ask for a pedigree.

In order to show they do, however have to meet breed requirements. You can find out more about the specifications on each breed by the The ARBA Standard of Perfection which you can find at https://arba.net/  

That means they have to meet the breed characteristics, meet weight requirements and not have any DQ (disqualifications) etc. in order to show.

Not having a pedigree does prevent them from becoming registered or granded out. This is not a requirement and I will go over what registration means later on.

We have a doe in our barn that came out of our stock but due to not knowing 100% which pair she was out of we chose not to guess and so she doesn’t have a pedigree. This all happened because we sadly chose to partner up with someone and it all went wrong, so not all litters got recorded correctly. We want to be 100% honest so didn’t try to guess on the litters and just started over.

Gracie went over all babies and hand picked the one she wanted to keep. The lucky bunny that was kept was a beautiful Dutch doe that she named GFF Breezy. She has earned 9 legs and has even won BEST IN SHOW!

Even if you don’t have a full pedigree you can build your own from the ones you have. Breezy will never have a full pedigree so will never be able to register her or Grand her out, but her great grandbabies will have a full pedigree.